It was a breezy and cool Thursday afternoon upon my arrival at The Django via The Roxy. Placed in lower Manhattan, The Roxy is a legacy luxury boutique hotel highlighted in songs by New York-based rapper Biggie Smalls, and that has always been my main attribute. But there’s one surprising feat that most people probably don’t know about the hotel, the downstairs jazz club can also transform into a runway. That’s what happened for the Dauphinette FW23 Ready-To-Wear show.
After checking in and acquiring my glass of champagne, I hurried to my seat and sat down. While I listened to and enjoyed camaraderie about Dauphinette with my seatmates and with music from the live jazz band playing beneath, I started to look around the room.
One thing apparent about the Dauphinette brand is its cult-like following that all dress in a style that I would like to call “Office-core.” People donned loafers in many varieties, platformed and vintage styles, paired with button-downs, wide-leg trousers, and elaborate outerwear, which made me wonder if I had a pair of loafers I could dust off in the back of my closet. Displaying flouncy skirts, tucked cardigans, and bold prints, this is one of the poshest yet courageous sets of fashion showgoers I have seen this season.
With the crowd in their seats, silence falls across the room, the lights black out, the lights come back up, and the band begins to play: It’s showtime.
Models sauntered onto the runway in a manner that felt mysterious yet alluring. It was a slow walk that allowed them to show their outfit to one half of the club, filled with red tufted booth seating, and then turn the other way and begin their descent down the rest of the runway.
What do you define as an Impossible Dream? For Olivia Cheng of Dauphinette, it means making “anti-fashion—it’s intensely precise yet not serious at all,” as she puts it. After becoming uninspired by the city life of New York, Cheng sought to attend Cashin College— Bonnie Cashin, the American Sportswear designer—who created the comfort casual aesthetic that we know and love today—taught by Dr. Stephanie Lake. It’s through this journey to and from Minneapolis, Minnesota, to spend time with Dr/ Lake, her daughter Odette—and coincidentally Odette’s toys, amongst the clatter of jazz music playing in the background and the stacking of mohair, cashmere, and wools in a room Cheng aptly describes as a “textile heaven” that she finds inspiration for the Dauphinette FW23 ready-to-wear show. Also, upcycling is a big theme for the collection with the intention that if last season’s collection was dinner, this season would be the leftovers.
And we’re off. Starting off with a bang, the first model of the show paced herself down the runway while wearing a green hat that I instantly wanted to add to my cart, accented by a baby pig in the model’s arms. As the piglet began to squeal and wriggle about, the next model, wearing a multicolored and vibrant plaid coat teamed with a contrasting skirt, both made out of mohair blankets, made an appearance.
Following was a patchwork jacket made from mohair, leather, and shearling scraps, partnered with a fuzzy hat, and an American football sashayed down the runway. The most adorable baby doll dress made its way in, showcasing a transparent fabric emblazoned with a vintage collection of watch faces and a pink and red striped mohair scarf.
Three of the most breathtaking moments executed dramatic, over-scaled proportions that made my heart skip a beat. What can I say—I love proportion contrasts. The first was a draped pink top, exposing a cutout on one side tacked together by green-colored holds and a red skirt made from yarn scraps that featured an oversized red bow. It was drama and glamour. Next, a green trench coat resembling a piece of evening wear that Poison Ivy—the D.C. Comics villain—would fancy for a nice date with Harley Quinn. The garment used green flowers and a multitude of embroideries (including “floor-sweeping glass,” semi-precious stone beads, and upcycled Swarovski crystals). The last one, perhaps my favorite look of the entire show, was a red puffer-style mini dress accented by a striped physique and matching pumps. It was definitely a showstopper.
Another interesting aspect of the Dauphinette FW23 ready-to-wear show was the accessories. Supplied or designed in part by Dr. Lake, Lorena Pipenco, Tomtex, and Andrea Bergart, the collection featured sport balls-shaped handbags embellished with studs and spikes, sleek fur-covered shades, and fur-trimmed heels of all heights. The accessories add to the conversation Cheng creates and doesn’t detour from her talking points; I loved it.
In conclusion, Olivia Cheng delivered with her Dauphinette FW23 Ready-To-Wear show, and she did it sustainably.
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